Saturday, June 16, 2012

Trail Magic

Sunday we had a long walk (31.2 km/19.2 miles) into Astorga. It was a bit windy, so we were getting dust in our eyes, and we had some small climbs up, as well as descents down, rocky roads. We were on a flat stretch about 6 km from the city when we saw a sign for La Casa de los Dioses. As we cruised up to the building, we were greeted by some other peregrinos and a Spanish man who called out,"Self service!"  And did he have a spread from which to serve ourselves!

There was potable water, a dozen types of tea, a dozen more kinds of fruit juice, almond milk, rice milk, cherries, chestnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, figs, and some crunchy cookie bar things. Then his friend came out with some hot curry (vegetarian, of course!) and a green salad with veggies and chickpeas. It was amazing, the sort of food I'd love to have around my own home all the time--fresh and nourishing. And after a long day of walking in the sun and wind, it was perfect. Not only was there food for our bodies, there were some comfy couches and a hammock to give our minds a break. He also had a labyrinth near his building. AND there was a huge compost bin which, if you know me at all, was also hugely satisfying to see. 

 We have not encountered anything else like this on the camino. I understand why not--thousands upon thousands of peregrinos walk the way each year. It would be very difficult to sustain such an operation (sidenote: we got trail magic on the AT from a couple who watched me with eagle eyes when I poured more of their milk over the cereal I had carried with me). That is why it is so beautiful and was much appreciated by those who stopped to enjoy such generosity in a peaceful environment. In the midst of our now-daily grind of eating cold ham and cheese sandwiches and walking many miles in the relentless elements, we were unconditionally offered respite.

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