tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-81247987184982415732024-02-19T10:32:58.702-05:00Farmers' Travelsrachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-74192279836835435582013-01-18T18:00:00.000-05:002013-01-18T18:20:54.311-05:00Camino Day Twenty Four<div style="text-align: center;">
Thursday, June 14, 2012<br />
Trabadelo to Fonfria<br />
30.4 km (20.8 miles)<br />
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morning photo in Trabadelo</div>
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The person on the left side of the picture is an old lady who was practically marching down the road! Then there are some other pilgrims on the right side of the picture, dressed in walking attire, while the Spanish lady was wearing a skirt and blouse.</div>
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From my journal: <i>Today was another long day, mileage-wise. I was not happy today. It started when we were about to leave the bar where we ate lunch. Bridget mentioned a 2.5 </i>[km] <i>climb up still & I thought we were already at the highest point of the day. It was true, Bridget was right--which also meant that we had 14.5 km to go instead of 12.5. Ugh.</i></div>
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From my journal: <i>We did have incredible views today. We started out in a valley--sort of like the hollars at home--then began to climb through a forest, which was nice. Very AT-like. Even though we still had to ascend after lunch, we had an amazing view to the other side once we peaked the mountain. </i></div>
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We are at ~1,200 meters (over 3,900 feet) above sea level here. We are leaving the region of Castilla y Leon and about to enter Galicia.</div>
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a distance marker, which reads K151,5 (151.5 km or ~94 miles to Santiago!)</div>
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This sign indicated that the CNO STGO was to the right. For those of you who are as bright as my husband, I'm sorry to explain it. For those of you who are dim as I am, "CNO STGO" is the Camino de Santiago.</div>
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Someone had "vandalized" this camino sign and drawn angel wings on the image of the peregrino. I was grumpy and drinking a beer and thought it was appropriate to get a picture of feisty me next to the angelic sign.</div>
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not an uncommon view for us</div>
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Monumento do Peregrino</div>
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near Alto San Roque</div>
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My "bad day" continued with me getting frustrated with the guy who ran the albergue where we ended up for the night. He insisted it would be too confusing for the cook to make me a meal (<b>off their menu</b>, I want to add) instead of me ordering the pilgrim's meal. Then they wanted to charge Adam for wifi, which was not really standard practice in albergues, so that was also frustrating. We were both annoyed with that albergue.</div>
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I took a nap, and Adam went to the other place in town to figure out our supper. It is a casa rural, and is more like a bed and breakfast, I think (private rooms, more expensive, etc.) The woman who ran Casa Nunez treated us like royalty. (Or, the way Americans are used to being treated in most establishments, which = the customer is always right. What can I say? We are spoiled. Anyway....) We had a wonderful meal at Casa Nunez.<i> </i>Mine consisted of the following:</div>
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First course: a salad of fresh tomatoes, onions, olives, and goat cheese</div>
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Second course: two fried eggs over easy, fries, two roasted red peppers (<i>pimientos</i>), and a large slice of hard cheese</div>
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Dessert: tarta de Santiago (a dense almond cake), but I was also offered cheese with honey as an alternative</div>
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From my journal: <i>I told Adam that if I wasn't vegan I would have thought I had died and gone to heave with all the cheese she put before me tonight :)</i></div>
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We were the only customers eating there, so Adam asked the matron to switch the channel from a telenovela (soap opera) to the football/soccer game. They were communicating in Spanish, and at some point she said, "Soup? You want soup? We have lots of kinds of soup..." Poor Adam just wanted to watch the Euro Cup. He started to make signs with his fingers like a person running, then he raised his arms above his head and called out, "GOAL!" She got it then and changed the channel for us.</div>
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So the night ended well, but I did mention in my journal that I couldn't wait to "scoot out of this town!"</div>
rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-58175786330659363252013-01-18T16:57:00.002-05:002013-01-18T16:58:48.291-05:00Camino Day Twenty Three<div style="text-align: center;">
Wednesday, June 13, 2012<br />
Ponferrada to Trabadelo<br />
32.6 km (20 1/4 miles)</div>
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The morning sun was BRIGHT when this picture was taken! I think my eyes were closed, but the morning picture <b>must</b> happen, so there it is.</div>
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Castillo de los Temlparios (Templar Castle)</div>
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Ponferrada, El Bierzo, Spain</div>
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From our guidebook: "The magnificent 12th century Templar castle has been declared a national monument and recently reopened after extensive renovations. Ponferrada came under the protectorate of teh Templar Order by decree of King Fernando II in 1178. Their official presence here was short lived as the Order was outlawed in 1312 and disbanded by a Church fearful of their increasing power and esoteric tradition."</div>
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Stork in its nest</div>
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The little white specks are a bunch of storks in a field</div>
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We stopped in this winery to use their bathroom. I was very grateful!</div>
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vineyards</div>
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cherries being harvested</div>
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That is Adam, walking through the narrow, cobbled streets of Villafranca de Bierzo. The orange piece of paper you can see on the closest door was a "For sale" sign, which was posted on a majority of those doors. We talked/dreamed of coming back and owning a place there someday!</div>
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The previous three or four pictures are Villafranca de Bierzo, and I believe the next four are as well.</div>
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This is a view of Villafranca de Bierzo behind us. We hiked on through the town, past the group with which we had been walking, to make up some miles and get to Santiago in a week (and by my birthday, which is June 20th).</div>
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zooming in to that view in the previous picture</div>
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We walked out of the town and along a road. We got to a point where we had to turn, and I was very grateful we went right, because if we went left, we would have gone on the highway through a tunnel, pictured below. We were just walking on the side of a small highway instead (no tunnel, much safer, right?).</div>
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We pushed on past a couple of towns and ended up at this albergue. I'll let my journal fill you in on some details of our stay there: </div>
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<i>Today was Grandma Elaine's birthday. I think she would have been 91 this year. </i></div>
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<i>We did a long day today. More than 30k--I think I heard someone say 32. Although he went a different way than we did. He is a guy from Belgium (Guy is his name) who has walked from Brussels. I can't understand everything he says, but his English is pretty good and it's peppered with French, so I get that. It seemed like his life was a mess when he started (Apr. 19)--what I caught is that one or two ppl died, his wife left, someone else attempted (or succeeded at) committing suicide. He sounds like he is in a really good place now, and he wants to get a new backpack and travel the rest of the</i><i> world after finishing the camino.</i></div>
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<i>This Brazilian (I think) older woman came up to me while I was cooking tonight (lentil stew, again, but thankfully not pasta <u>again</u>--we've had pasta 3 or 4 nights in a row, and i just did not feel inspired @ <u>all</u> by the tiny "supermercado" here in town) and told me it smelled great. It totally made up for the old women from 2 nights ago, who got annoyed when I tried to help wash and dry dishes.</i></div>
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<i>The last couple of mornings we have not left until 8:00. It actually feels too late to me. We still need to make up a day, and right now we are a little further than the "stages" in the book, so we are doing ok.</i></div>
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I guess you can tell that some of the other pilgrims and the food that was available (or not available) were starting to wear on me!</div>
rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-47262572593869310772013-01-18T14:47:00.005-05:002013-01-18T14:51:01.523-05:00Camino Day Twenty Two<div style="text-align: center;">
Tuesday, June 12, 2012<br />
Foncebadon to Ponferrada<br />
~28.2 km (17.5 miles)</div>
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Morning photo, all bundled up! I'm wearing my fleece jacket, plus rain jacket, and I was ready to put my hood on (over the hat, yep) as soon as we went out in the rain.</div>
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From my journal: <i>It was hard to get out of the albergue this morning. Especially knowing the weather outside was probably awful (it was). It was chilly and foggy, but I don't think it every really rained on us, just sprinkled. Windy too. For the first time I wore my jacket & raincoat. And pants and hat. And all that was fine for most of the day.</i></div>
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Adam walking towards the Cruz de Ferro in the fog</div>
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The photo on the left is Adam, and I am in the one on the right.</div>
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From our guidebook: "This majestic spot stands 1,504 meters (4,934 feet) above sea level and a simple iron cross stands atop its weathered pole that has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St. James."</div>
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The pile of rocks and rubble are all from pilgrims who have left items there at the cross. Adam brought his stone from the Quillen College of Medicine campus. I forgot to get a rock before we left the United States, so my rock was from St. Jean Pied de Port or Roncesvalles. That evening, one of our pilgrim-friends from the U.S. told us he thought he missed the Cruz de Ferro, and was prepared to turn back. A woman from his church had given him a stone to carry, and though it was not physically large or heavy, it represented some very heavy stuff going on in her life. Our friend felt obligated to relieve her of those metaphorical burdens and was relieved when he came upon the cross and could deposit them there.</div>
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From an email I sent to close family members and friends: </div>
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I love signs like this, to see where we have been (Jerusalem, in 2007) and to see where and how far we have to go (Santiago and Finisterre) on this trip.</div>
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This and the photo above were taken in Manjarin, which hosts a private albergue and a population of one (1). There is a small shop there where one can purchase various icons and religious paraphernalia, postcards, some snacks and water, etc. Gregorian chants are played on a tape player, and there is a trace of incense in the air. </div>
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The clouds started to lift...</div>
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We can see more of the city (Ponferrada) below us...</div>
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Our view of the mountains to our left. There is a road between the ridge where we were hiking and the ones you see there.</div>
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The fog has lifted!</div>
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See the choices of bocadillos (basically, sandwiches on a baguette)? Not too promising for a vegetarian, even less so for a vegan!</div>
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I theorized that there was a recent festival or holiday in this village, as a bunch of yellow flowers was affixed to every doorway.</div>
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Tons of lavender!</div>
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We walked through this herd to follow the camino.</div>
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Camino signage</div>
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Beautiful old sweet chestnut trees (according to our guidebook)</div>
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17th c. Church of San Nicolas</div>
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Molinaseca</div>
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Puente de Peregrinos (Pilgrim's bridge), with a foosball table underneath. The church of San Nicolas is to the right in this picture, and we are looking back from where we just walked.</div>
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Patatas (potatoes) bravas </div>
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This picture was taken around or before noon. I remember posting on facebook about eating potatoes and bread and drinking beer for lunch, and how this meal indicates that you are either hiking, in Europe, or both! </div>
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I am updating the blog in January, and I couldn't believe that all of the above pictures were taken at the beginning of our day!</div>
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This is what a lot of little towns in the valleys look like. There are stone buildings and at least one square with a statue of St. James.</div>
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The above three pictures are the view behind our albergue in Ponferrada.</div>
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The guy on the left is one of the caretakers at the albergue where we spent the night. The other people are (left to right) Amber, Mitch, Steve, and Adam, all from the U.S.</div>
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From my journal: <i>It took awhile to get our room, but I think we ended okay--we got in a room with only 2 bunk beds, "because we started in St. Jean." The Spaniard with us started in Roncesvalles. And Bridget caught up to us. So she's also in our room.</i></div>
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We had not seen Bridget (the Irish prison-librarian) since our stay near the church of the rocks. We also saw Regina, a German woman who we met in our first parochial albergue (above the cathedral, with the huge community dinner and laundry room with pigeons).</div>
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I remember that we got some good groceries in Ponferrada, despite not being sure of the directions to get to the mercado. The albergue had a kitchen, so we were able to make our own meal. The grocery store was pretty well-stocked, so we were also able to get fresh produce, good pasta and sauce, ice cream, and wine, as well as some toiletries there. This is also where we got to know Steve better, where he told us about his wife and kids, and the preparation he was doing to become a lay...something (deacon?) in the Catholic church.</div>
rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-45593090487860604182013-01-18T13:09:00.001-05:002013-01-18T13:16:00.319-05:00Camino Day Twenty One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Monday, June 11, 2012</div>
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Astorga to Foncebadon</div>
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26.9 km (16 3/4 miles)</div>
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Morning photo in Astorga</div>
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The way goes past this store. At the bottom of the window sign it says "Buen Camino!"</div>
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Many pilgrims stopped here to get some hot food for breakfast.</div>
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I am not sure it is visible in the photo, but there is a rainbow in that gray sky in the center of the photo.</div>
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From my journal: <i>We walked in the rain today, more rain than we have seen so far. It was cold, too. </i></div>
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<i>Today we saw at least three rainbows. It was so great. Interesting too, b/c the posts with the shells on them also have rainbows painted on them.</i></div>
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lavender plants (I think, correct me if I'm wrong)</div>
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You can see a stork's nest in the steeple here. We saw tons of these nests, perched high above us, and often on relatively small platforms.</div>
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Some blue sky on a rainy day</div>
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Dinner at the parochial albergue. See that HUGE pot of spaghetti on the right?! </div>
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The guy on the left is from Costa Rica and the young lady is our friend Erle, a Norwegian student who is traveling all over the world during her gap year.</div>
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One big happy family, eating dinner together!</div>
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From my journal: <i>Just 9 more days until we reach Santiago, 9 days until my b-day. We have been in Spain 3 weeks now, I think. Crazy! It seems like its been forever. </i></div>
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<i>We have had dinner and everyone is settling in. Adam went to watch the </i>[football] <i>game with Erle. Dinner was amazing, and they offered a couple of vegetarian options for me (salad sin atun!). I am in a bit of an odd mood--there are 2 older ladies here who I feel don't like me. But one of the women from Greenland just gave me some cookies--it all works out, I guess :) </i></div>
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<i></i>The mother and daughter from Greenland were tense, as their items had bedbugs, and the girl lost something (I can't remember what, but they found it). They were still cordial with us and eventually worked things out between them, but the tension between them made it a bit awkward. The comment about the ladies who did not like me was in reference to these ladies who are probably in their 60's or 70's. When Adam and I were helping prepare the meal, one of them made a comment in Spanish about my lack of vegetable-cutting skills. It felt like we were teenagers and they were just trying to get under my skin. Later, they were washing dishes and I was trying to help, but I think I was splashing water all over the place, and they took the dishwashing back from me. Adam had his own issues with them the next morning.</div>
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It was at this albergue that we met a French guy who was running the trail and was planning to travel back to get married in France after his camino. His fiancee is American, and they live in California. We also got to know a Spanish lady (in the blue, behind Adam in that picture just above) who was walking with the lady in red (I think). We talked about reaching the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross) the next morning and the stones we carried with us to leave there (Adam's was from his med school campus). The Spanish lady said, "You are supposed to bring a rock that is equal to the burdens you bear in this world. Bigger rock means bigger burdens. Me? I don't have burdens. So I will pick up a rock here tomorrow to leave at the Cruz de Ferro." </div>
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This albergue is located in the mountains, and we were <i>very</i> cold there, as we had hiked in the rain. This was one of our coldest nights. I think many of our bunkmates tossed and turned and didn't get quality sleep.</div>
rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-32843298718421236692013-01-18T11:59:00.001-05:002013-01-18T13:14:59.640-05:00Camino Day Twenty<div style="text-align: center;">
Sunday, June 10, 2012</div>
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Villar de Mazarife to Astorga</div>
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31.2 km (19.4 miles)</div>
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morning picture: Adam, Rachel, and Lee at Albergue Tio Pepe</div>
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This was a Sunday morning, and these people were still out partying from the night before! </div>
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At one point, I counted over 10 types of wildflowers along the side of this road. They were so cheery! So I started taking pictures of them, knowing I would eventually share them with you on the blog.</div>
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Hey there honey :)</div>
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Puente de Orbigo, dating from the 13th century</div>
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getting water at the fountain</div>
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Liz and Jody</div>
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Trail magic. Read about it <a href="http://farmerstravels.blogspot.com/2012/06/trail-magic.html">here</a>.</div>
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From my journal, about the trail magic: <i>Talk about <u>amazing</u>. The guy had many kinds of tea & juice, cherries, dried figs, crunchy cookie-bar things, chestnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, water, and <u>then</u> his friend brought out curry and a green salad--Yum. It was perfect. They had a little labyrinth, comfy couches, benches, a hammock. And a compost bin, of course. It was so great for the soul. He even had a heart stamp </i>[for our pilgrim's passports]<i>. All for donations.</i></div>
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labyrinth</div>
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Cruceiro Santo Toribio</div>
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From our guidebook: "Stone cross commemorating the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga who supposedly fell to his knees here in a final farewell after having been banished from the town. It is Astorga's <i>Monte Gozo</i> where we have a wonderful view over the town."</div>
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Palacio Episcopal (in Astorga), designed by Gaudi</div>
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Read the second line of this sign: You are not allowed to smoke, eat, or heal in the rooms. ?? Not sure if that translated correctly into English. I included the Spanish version of the sign below in case any of you reading this can translate it better. And if it is translated correctly...what?! </div>
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Since we were in Astorga on a Sunday, only small markets were open for us to get groceries. Before realizing this, I stopped by a small mercado, getting just a couple of fresh fruits and veggies, then set off to find a larger grocery store. Upon finding the larger store closed--and not just for siesta--I roamed the fairly empty streets for a couple of minutes until an older gentleman, who was dressed to the nines in a suit and fedora (with a feather) as well as donning a ring on each finger, saw me and motioned me over to him. </div>
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I was not alarmed, as I had seen this man in the lobby of the albergue when we checked in. He asked me a couple of questions (if I was a peregrino, I think he asked if I was German, etc.) and proceeded to give me a walking tour of the city! He first took me to a small church which was pretty unassuming from the outside, but beautifully decorated inside. Before I entered the church, he indicated something about the number seven, but since he was speaking 99% Spanish, I really couldn't tell what he was saying. So I sat in the church for a couple of minutes, and there he was, waiting for me outside. </div>
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He next took me to some Roman ruins. I think he said something there about the 5th century and handed me a little piece of shale which he broke off from the wall. </div>
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Next he took me to a couple of cathedrals (the Gaudi one pictured above) and another called Iglesia de Santa Marta. We did not go in, but he communicated (and I understood via hand gestures and cognates) that the architecture of Iglesia de Santa Marta consisted of a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles, as well as another I can't remember.</div>
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It was at this point that I started to feel uneasy about walking around alone with this guy. He was not at all physically imposing, but I think because the streets were fairly empty (reminder: Sunday afternoon, plus a football/soccer game was due to start soon, so the bars were probably full) and Adam had no clue where I was, my instincts finally told me I should not let myself get into such a situation. A story came to mind in which Adam and a friend were invited to a "behind the scenes" tour of a pyramid, during which they were cornered and the man demanded compensation for the tour.</div>
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Fortunately, another peregrino from a northern European country (I honestly cannot remember which one) saw us and joined us. She said something in English to the effect of, "Oh! I've read about this guy! He is like the unofficial tour guide of Astorga!" We were back near the small grocery store at this point, so I begged off, telling them that my feet hurt (which they did, a little bit) and that I had to get back to eat something (which was also true). The other woman's friend joined her, and they happily went off with the "tour guide."</div>
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I didn't get a picture of him, but I just googled "unofficial tour guide Astorga," and another woman had written about him as well! Unfortunately the link to her blog did not work. I had hoped to send you to her blog so you could see a picture of this guy! Also, I honestly don't believe he was dangerous, but this situation helped me realize I have to practice saying "no" to strangers and putting my safety above their feelings. </div>
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I found this from a later day in my journal: <i>We stayed in Astorga, which is a beautiful city. There is this older guy who dresses up really fancy (hat w/ a feather in it, suit, rings) and loves to give tours of the city to peregrinos. He was quite sweet, but it was like a guerilla tour, and I eventually backed out because I wasn't sure how much of it my feet could take. Also, I thought he might ask for money at the end, and I really didn't want to pay.</i></div>
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rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-26070622812432617602012-07-07T16:30:00.002-04:002013-01-18T11:12:49.763-05:00Camino Day Nineteen<div style="text-align: center;">
Saturday, June 9, 2012</div>
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Leon to Villar de Mazarife</div>
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22.2 km (13.8 miles)</div>
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Morning picture in Leon</div>
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Rachel, Amber, Andrew, Colleen, Adam</div>
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It was a cold morning! We did set out early, around 7 a.m. or so, but it was something like 8* C, which is around 46* F. A little cold for this lady, especially in shorts.</div>
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leaving Leon</div>
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Bodegas--where wine is kept, because it has a constant temperature</div>
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Part of "the group:" Mitch, Colleen, Lee, Andrew, and Jeff</div>
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That day we planned on walking on past the stage in the book, but we stayed where the group was staying. Adam and I were given a private room--just one bunk bed instead of many! :) There ground floor of the albergue was a bar, so Adam watched the Euros football game there with a bunch of people. I took a break from the group, eating nutella out of the jar and playing around on the internet on the iPod.</div>
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From my journal: <i>The laziness of the afternoons and evenings is starting to wear on me. I really think if I had a book, or maybe if we walked a little bit later into the day, I wouldn't feel as bored. I know I should relish this free time, but it is a daily occurrence--it is not something I'm lacking in my life right now.</i></div>
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rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-24172200572256531642012-07-07T16:21:00.001-04:002012-07-07T16:21:14.777-04:00Camino Day Eighteen<div style="text-align: center;">
Friday, June 8, 2012</div>
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Mansillas de las Mulas to Leon</div>
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Cathedral in Leon</div>
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preschool children playing in front of the cathedral in Leon</div>
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A protest in Leon. I had my earplugs in my jacket pocket, so I stuck those in my ears, and it was still too loud, with horns and loud gun shots.</div>
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The morning photo--oops! Forgot to take it that morning. After this we had an amazing meal at a L'Union, a vegetarian restaurant. We both were extremely satisfied with our meals there. </div>
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We had supper at an Indian restaurant with ten or so other pilgrims who were also looking for some different food. We met four pilgrims that night who we had never met before: a woman and her mother from Greenland, M from Denmark, and Jenny from Germany. Our albergue had a closing time of 9:30 (this was a Friday night, in a city--eek!), and we got our food at about 9. We gobbled it down, then rushed back to the albergue...and of course they didn't close the doors until after 10 pm. </div>
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Gaudi building in Leon</div>
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<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-19416147409054788672012-07-07T16:00:00.000-04:002012-07-07T16:34:40.611-04:00Camino Day Seventeen<div style="text-align: center;">
Thursday, June 7, 2012</div>
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Hermanillos de la Calzada to Mansilla de las Mulas</div>
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24.5 km (15.2 miles)</div>
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Morning photo</div>
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The Roman Road (Calzada Romana). It was a windy day, and the road was flat and hard on our feet. </div>
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From my journal: <i>I had so little energy when we got to this albergue. Adam went to the store and got me a candy bar, which I had been talking about. We had an apple and orange + coffee (each) at breakfast, then some bread along the way. And we hiked 24 km or so by 1:00. So I'm thinking about <u>food</u>. :) And napping.</i></div>
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I did get a nap, then went to the mercado and bought some groceries. They had frozen brussels sprouts, so I sauteed those first, and we gobbled them up! We ate an early supper at 4 or so. It turned out to be great timing, because everyone else wanted to cook later, and there were only four stove top eyes for them all to share.</div>
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The view of the courtyard from the room in which we slept. We had a great night out on that patio, with a group of about a dozen, sharing snacks, meals, ice cream, wine, and gin and tonics.</div>
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Colleen and Steve making supper. </div>
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Andrew (from New Jersey) getting some love from Jeff (from New Zealand) and Adam</div>
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Laura, who runs the albergue, terrorizing Liz (from Chicago). We met Liz the night before, and guess who helped us get our guidebook back? Somehow Liz found out that her French friend Marie had picked up an English guidebook the day before. Liz hilariously described herself hobbling after Marie, trying to catch her in town before she got on the bus to Leon. Then when I walked into our bunk room later, the book was on my bed, and Liz was trying to sneak out of the room without being seen :)</div>
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<br /></div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-40357433788952586232012-07-07T15:55:00.000-04:002012-07-07T16:35:15.839-04:00Camino Day Sixteen<div style="text-align: center;">
Wednesday June 6, 2012</div>
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Moratinos to Hermanillos de la Calzada</div>
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23.7 km (14.7 miles)</div>
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Morning picture at San Bruno albergue</div>
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Rachel's feet in Sahagun--the halfway point between St. Jean Pied de Port and Santiago</div>
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bridge in Sahagun</div>
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We walked 2 or 3 km past this bridge when we realized we left our guidebook at the albergue where we had coffee. After much deliberation, Adam turned back to get it, and I continued in the direction we had been walking. We planned to stay in Hermanillos de la Calzada at the municipal albergue.</div>
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This is what the camino looked like. There was that odd tiger character, which we hadn't seen before (and is so cartoony--what's that about?) on the intermittent signs, and there were barely any people out on the camino that day. I think if you click on the picture (to enlarge it), you can see a couple of people on the horizon of the road. </div>
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All alone on the camino. It was beautiful, but I felt so lonely. There was a split in the camino that was confusing, and I hoped, hoped, hoped that Adam had taken the same path that I chose.</div>
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We ended up at the same place! However, the guidebook was gone when Adam got there, so he walked an extra hour or more for nothing. I was just glad we were together. We went shopping at a tiny grocery with a tiny grocer, and I was able to cook us some yummy lentil soup, plus we had bread and olive oil and red wine. We also met some really great people that night, one of whom gave us his bare-bones version of a guidebook. I wrote in my journal: <i>More on today later, but it ended up great. <u>Great</u>. Good food, good people, my faith in the camino is restored.</i></div>
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<br /></div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-88185145972927472162012-07-07T15:34:00.001-04:002012-07-07T15:34:09.034-04:00Camino Day Fifteen<div style="text-align: center;">
Tuesday, June 5, 2012</div>
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Carrion to Moratinos</div>
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30 km (18.6 miles)</div>
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Morning picture Day 15</div>
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Rachel and Adam on the meseta. We passed the time by playing Would You Rather Camino Version. An example of one the questions I was asked: Would you rather eat cold chickpeas out of the jar every meal or ice cream every meal for a week? This was actually hard for me to answer--ice cream just doesn't do it for me like it used to, and I've been craving things like chickpeas, beans, lentils, etc. An example of one of Adam's questions to answer: Would you rather get to an albergue and only have a bucket of yogurt to eat or only have a bucket of every one else's leftover apple cores to eat? Even though he doesn't like yogurt very much, he chose that. </div>
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stopping to sit/rest/play</div>
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From my journal: <i>It feels surreal here at this albergue</i> (San Bruno). <i>It is a nice albergue (and new), as they go, with chaise lounges and a small pool to dip your feet in. Hot (enough) showers. But we are in a town of 20 people--the church seems to be falling apart, we saw not a soul as we walked through the streets to get here--we were even the first people to arrive, just after 2.</i></div>
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<i>The walk was not especially inspiring today. We did meet a Belgian man who started walking in Belgium and is headed to Santiago--he has been hiking 8 weeks, which he has marked in notches on his wooden walking staff. </i></div>
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<i>I am bored here. Most definitely because there is not a group of people we know around us. Also because I do not have a book, and I don't want to spend hours and hours on the iPod. Also because there is no market in town, so we are not filling some time with that or preparing food. I miss being able to cook my own meals.</i><i> </i></div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-29783074061095898072012-07-07T15:19:00.002-04:002012-07-07T15:19:35.110-04:00Camino Day Fourteen<div style="text-align: center;">
Monday, June 4, 2012</div>
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Burgos to Carrion de los Condes</div>
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Many, many more miles than we could do by foot</div>
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Fountain in a park in Burgos</div>
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Albergue Santa Clara (St. Clare of Assisi)</div>
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Can you tell what is in the clear jar?</div>
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From my journal: <i>Went grocery shopping (less than 13 euros for dinner, breakfast, and lunch for two people) and had dinner at the albergue. A Portuguese guy, Jose, started a conversation with us--turns out he was in the same albergue as we were in Ages--2 days ago. When we walked to Burgos and bussed here, he <u>walked</u> <u>the 100 km</u> by foot. He started at St. Jean one week ago. </i>(note that we are on day 14)<i> He walks about 50 km a day and for 12 hours or so daily. Amazing. It's just no problem for him. He's probably in his late 30's, early 40's. </i></div>
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And if you haven't figured out what is the jar, I'll just tell you: it's snails. Mmmmm, huh?</div>
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<br /></div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-4734431996768893402012-07-07T15:10:00.003-04:002012-07-07T15:10:30.225-04:00Camino Day Thirteen<div style="text-align: center;">
Sunday, June 3, 2012</div>
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Ages to Burgos</div>
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23.1 km (14.3 miles)</div>
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Rachel, Adam, Debbie</div>
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The quality of the morning photos is getting worse...but we (um, I) just kept having them taken!</div>
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Our first drizzly day. That's Debbie and me.</div>
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labyrinth</div>
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This valley looked beautiful from our vantage point up on a hill.</div>
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Cathedral in Burgos</div>
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Cathedral in Burgos</div>
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Cathedral in Burgos</div>
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Burgos</div>
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On our way into Burgos, Frieda took us on an "adventure." She was following her German guide to the camino, and it suggested that we follow the old camino (which went through a big public park) instead of the new, re-routed one (which followed the highway). Adam and I weren't too keen on this particular "adventure," but we all ended up making it to the albergue by asking locals for the location of the camino (when we got into town via the alternative route) and then following the typical signs.</div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-76718124411688838982012-07-07T14:54:00.001-04:002012-07-07T14:54:37.005-04:00Camino Day Eleven<div style="text-align: center;">
Saturday, June 2, 2012</div>
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Tosantos to Ages</div>
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20.5 km (12.7 miles)</div>
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Morning picture in Tosantos. Another leisurely morning getting out of the albergue.</div>
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Rachel and Bridget (from Ireland)</div>
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Caroline (from Belgium), with whom we made supper several nights.</div>
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Looking back on the hermitage</div>
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Adam</div>
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Part of my lunch--I had candied almonds, a little bag of olives, ice cream, and two beers. Believe me, I crashed when we got to the albergue that afternoon.</div>
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When we arrived in San Juan de Ortega, which our book indicated had a population of twenty (yes, twenty), we saw about 100 people as soon as we emerged from the woods. Then more and more. Turns out it was the festival day of who else but San Juan de Ortega! There was a procession of, well, just about everyone who was in attendance, with people holding banners and these posts with bouquets of flowers at the top. There were all sorts of vendors selling "fair food," and various cheap items.</div>
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Pilgrims grabbing some shade, watching the spectacle of the festival</div>
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<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-45964118614259494622012-07-07T14:41:00.002-04:002012-07-07T14:41:08.550-04:00Camino Day Ten<div style="text-align: center;">
Friday, June 1, 2012</div>
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Granon to Tosantos</div>
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20.5 km (12.7 miles)<br />
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Morning picture in front of <i>San Juan Bautista</i>. The volunteers asked us not to leave before 7 a.m. (what's the point of getting up so early anyway? they asked), so we "slept in," ate breakfast at the albergue, and got ready at a leisurely pace.</div>
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Pilgrims and signs of the camino</div>
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Cave dwellings</div>
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Albergue (<i>San Francisco de Asis</i>) in Tosantos</div>
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The hermitage of Our Lady of the Rock (<i>Ermita de la Virgen de la Pena [la Chiesa])</i>. The hermitage is usually locked, but we were able to have a mass (in Korean, Latin, German, and English) there with the volunteers from our albergue and the other pilgrims. You can read about that service <a href="http://farmerstravels.blogspot.com/2012/06/jesus-of-caves.html">here</a>.</div>
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After another communal supper, we had prayers in the upper room of the albergue. As with mass, this service was conducted in multiple languages. We each read the prayer of a pilgrim who stayed there and was on his/her way to Santiago. I read a prayer by a man named Mike. It went something like this:</div>
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<i>Please send someone to help my ex-wife, who has MS and really is a good person.</i></div>
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<i>Please send someone to help my ex-girlfriend, who is losing her eyesight, and is a good person.</i></div>
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<i>Please send someone to help my other ex-girlfriend, who is just plain nasty.</i></div>
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<i>Oh, and my life is kinda in the ditch, too.</i></div>
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<i>XOXO</i></div>
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<i>Mike</i></div>
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<i>Please also be with my kids.</i></div>
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We were also given a little yellow arrow pin, which I kept on my backpack for the rest of the trip.</div>
<br /></div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-77747580450530857852012-07-07T11:20:00.002-04:002012-07-07T11:20:22.229-04:00Camino Day Nine<div style="text-align: center;">
Thursday, May 31, 2012</div>
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Najera to Granon</div>
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28.2 km (17.5 miles)<br />
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Morning photo, with Saint James</div>
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We stopped here for a water break after climbing a long hill. That town you can see behind us is this weird, ugly brand new housing development that was completely devoid of people, save for a tour bus of older pilgrims who smiled at us eagerly as we passed. As we walked through, we felt like we were on a movie set or something. It was eerie. From my journal: <i>After this we got into a weird little village of ugly, uniform, modern houses--like a vacation spot, because there is a golf course?</i></div>
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At this point, I'd like to note that I am not looking through my journal before I type in this. So the fact that I called it weird and ugly twice, without referring back to notes written at the time...well, you can imagine how we perceived the town!</div>
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On the other side of the town, however, was an older village, which of course means there is a bar. We stopped there for coffee, and Adam got a beer. It was while we were sitting there that Adam noticed the program on TV was called <i>Desayunos</i>. "Breakfast?" he thought. Sure enough, even though we had walked 15 km (9+ miles), it was only 9:45 a.m!</div>
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From my journal: <i>We walked straight through the last town listed in the book (for the day's schedule) and on to Granon. The last couple of km were rough. It was hot, we were on a path w/o shade and right by a highway. </i></div>
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However, we were blessed with a grand reception when arrived at the albergue! We were welcomed with a hug (despite our smelly bodies) and a glass of water. It was our first parish albergue (located in the upper rooms of <i>San Juan Bautista</i>), and we were completely sold on the idea. The idea being communal meals, mass in the cathedral downstairs, and leaving a donation for it all instead of paying a set price.</div>
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This is the main room of the albergue. At the top of the picture, you can see Judith (pronounced "YOU-dit"), who was playing the piano and singing. She has a beautiful, ethereal voice and is trying to get a cd of religious music produced. </div>
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Adam is at the top left of the picture, attending to his blisters. In between Judith and Adam is the medicine chest, where we found a needle and some thread, as well as rubbing alcohol, which he used to pierce his blister, then leave some thread hanging out. We met several pilgrims who swore by it.</div>
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Next to Adam are two guys playing chess, and then two other men sitting around the room are two of the Italians, just enjoying Judith's impromptu concert.</div>
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Another concert, outside in the courtyard. Christian, a German guy, was playing the guitar and making up songs. One was about how he was sick of hearing the phrase, "Buen camino!"</div>
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In the picture, from left to right, are: Judith (German), Marco (Italian), Frieda (German), Tuna (Norweigian), Anna (Norwegian), and Regina (German). Bridget from Ireland is the one wearing pink, in the background.</div>
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This it the laundry room. It is difficult to see, but in the front right are steps leading from the sinks to the clothes lines. The floor is concrete, and is dome-shaped because the laundry room is directly over the narthex of the church. It was a bit strange hanging our laundry in a room where I could clearly see pigeon droppings, but our clothes stayed clean.</div>
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This was during the big communal supper. I think there were at least 40 people. Judith played a song and a prayer for us. We sat with the Italian guys and some Germans. The salad unfortunately had tuna on it (not uncommon), so I picked around that, and my tablemates decided that I could have two servings of wine, since I didn't get as much food :) I ended up getting to know Tuna a bit better this evening, as we finished up washing the dishes together. After asking me why we are walking the camino, she mentioned that she and her family are not religious, which she thought would be a problem on the camino. I don't think she felt judged by or uncomfortable around other pilgrims.</div>
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We attended mass in the church, and from the sanctuary, if you looked up you could see the other side of this window. The mass was in Spanish. At the end, the priest invited up the pilgrims and blessed us. </div>
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This is a map of Spain. You can see the route we were walking (the Camino Frances). We walked from the east side of Spain to the west, starting at that yellow line (the border of France and Spain), and going across the top of the country.</div>
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<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-17854957357434110572012-07-07T10:41:00.001-04:002012-07-07T10:41:50.218-04:00Camino Day Eight<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Wednesday, May 30, 2012</div>
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From Logrono to Najera</div>
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30.1 km (18.7 miles)</div>
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This was one of our earliest mornings. I had slept in my (clean) clothes, and packed my bag and laid out my toiletries the night before so I could just grab them and head to the women's bathroom (which was on the next floor down) with all my stuff. We left the albergue at 5:30 a.m. or so.</div>
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We had to walk several miles to get out of Logrono. First we walked through the city itself <i>(pretty unremarkable</i>, according to my journal), then the camino went through a big park. We eventually also went through more of a wilderness park area and came across a big lake, which was the biggest body of water we had seen so far in Spain. </div>
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The barrel says Rioja, which is the region we were in. The fountain has a conch shell, and there is a camino sign at the top of the photo. From my journal: <i>We are in La Rioja region, so we saw lots and lots (and lots) of vineyards with baby grape vines.</i></div>
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From my journal: <i>Spent the night in Najera at the municipal hostel. When we got there, there were 40 or so teenagers who were also spending the night. They were polite and quiet enough. Shopped and had dinner with A and Caroline. </i><i>Spoke to Frieda more--we had talked before but didn't know each others' names. </i><i>The bunk beds were pushed together, I guess for space, so Adam and I got to snuggle on a space larger than a twin bed :) Had lots of snorers around us :(</i></div>
<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-83977425504617813482012-06-30T20:06:00.000-04:002012-06-30T20:06:09.856-04:00Camino Day Seven<div style="text-align: center;">
Tuesday, May 29, 2012</div>
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Los Arcos to Logrono</div>
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28.6 km (17.8 miles)</div>
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Morning photo--Rachel, Adam, John, on John's last day on the camino</div>
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From my journal: <i>We got up early this morning, probably 5:30, and were out by 6. It was light enough to see, but the sun had not risen yet. It had rained during the night, but this morning didn't feel any cooler than any other morning. The sunrise was so pretty (behind us :( ), and it turned some rainclouds <u>pink</u> over the mountains to the south. It was kindof a magical morning--we were all in a good mood, it was cool, the sky was beautiful, the landscape neat (a bunch of green grass-covered knobby hills popping out of yellow hayfields). </i></div>
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Joe and John</div>
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Adam at the top of the steps, near the tourist information building in Logrono.</div>
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John's last steps with us on the camino</div>
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A stork in its nest atop a nearby cathedral</div>
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The view from the balcony of the municipal albergue</div>
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Mural near the albergue and a playground</div>
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We named this one St. James of the Thigh-High</div>
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We saw a small Michelangelo painting in this church. It was behind glass and inside a vault.</div>
<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-7981811610439752542012-06-30T19:40:00.003-04:002012-06-30T19:40:45.741-04:00Camino Day Six<div style="text-align: center;">
Monday, May 28, 2012</div>
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Estella to Los Arcos</div>
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21.1 km (13. 1 miles)</div>
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Morning photo--the three amigos!</div>
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Irache monastery</div>
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(another example of Adam's eye for capturing an image so well!)</div>
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At the (free!) wine fountain!</div>
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Alas, the fountain was not yet turned on for the day.</div>
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From my journal: <i>We keep running into the Brazilian guys who we first met in Pamplona (at the bus station, before officially beginning our camino). We each greet each other, maybe exchange a few words in our limited Portuguese and Spanish, then smile, acknowledging we don't really know how else to bridge the communication gap.</i></div>
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Also one of Adam's Amazing Photos</div>
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The guidebook claimed that there was a potable fountain here, but when we looked in through those arches and down the stone steps, we saw a dark pool of stagnant water. No thanks.</div>
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From my journal: <i>The camino went through a lot of vineyards and hay and wheat fields. In between two newly mown hayfields, I took a deep breath and the air smelled so sweet. Like candy.</i></div>
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This is the way. </div>
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We spent our last evening with John in Los Arcos. After going into this amazing and beautiful church, we went out for dinner and got the pilgrim's meal at the Hotel Monaco. Although my meal was subpar, John and Adam enjoyed their meals. And of course we had good bread, wine, and dessert so we ended up having a great last meal together.</div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-33224272783739845162012-06-30T19:12:00.000-04:002012-06-30T19:12:07.790-04:00Camino Day Five<div style="text-align: center;">
Sunday, May 27, 2012</div>
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Puente la Reina to Estella</div>
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21.9 km (13.6 miles)</div>
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Morning photo--hiking partner still not quite ready to jump up and at 'em in the morning </div>
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This is the <i>puente</i> (bridge) after which the city is named. From our guidebook: <i>Renamed Queens Bridge in honour of its benefactor Dona Mayor, wife of Sancho III. She commanded the magnificent Romanesque bridge to be built to support the safe movement of the increasing number of medieval pilgrims.</i></div>
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From my journal: <i>The village sat up on a hill and was so compact and pretty as we approached, surrounded by hills, fields, and vineyards. In the city we found a little store with delicious smelling fresh bread. We got coffee from a machine and observed the locals: a skinny, friendly, and hungry black cat and about 10 young people (20+ years) who were still out after partying in the night. They carried rum & cokes in cups, hung off of street signs, and were generally harmless and fairly entertaining. It was about 9 a.m.</i></div>
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<i>Many of these towns have very narrow, mostly cobbled streets that seem like alleys or pedestrian walkways. Yet cars utilize them, driving fairly slowly and minding pedestrians. </i></div>
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The Italians</div>
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From right to left: Marco, Andrea, Alessio, unknown guy</div>
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Front and center: Ricky</div>
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Joaquin ("Joe"), John, and Adam</div>
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We met and had dinner with Joe in Roncesvalles. He was only out for two and a half or three weeks time, so he planned on walking the first and last 100 km or so. He was one of several people we met who felt he needed a mental health break and so requested time off of work to walk the camino.</div>
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John, Adam, Caroline, and Morgan</div>
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From my journal: <i>It is siesta time, so I don't think shops are open. There is a full kitchen here (well, no stove, but 8-10 stove top eyes, a fridge, freezer, pots and pans, etc.), so I hope we can buy groceries and make dinner together. Someone made pasta last night at the albergue, and it smelled amazing.</i></div>
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<i></i>Later: <i>We set out to buy groceries with J, Caroline, and Morgan. We did find a shop where we found pasta, ingredients for sauce, and wine. Our meal cost 10.16 euros total--before splitting it between FIVE people. Plus we made about 2x what we needed. It was wonderful--shopping together, deciding on ingredients, cooking together (thought it was very simple), and enjoying the meal outside on the patio.</i></div>
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<i>M is 17 years old. His friend and hiking partner fell and broke multiple bones in his ankle and has gone home. </i></div>
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<i>The trip has been so great. We have met interesting people. We get to be outside--<u>the Spanish countryside</u>. I feel so fortunate that we have the time to be here.</i></div>
<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-32837068031966579692012-06-30T18:39:00.000-04:002012-06-30T18:40:26.319-04:00Camino Day Four<div style="text-align: center;">
Saturday, May 26, 2012</div>
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Pamplona to Puente La Reina</div>
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24.1 km (~15 miles)</div>
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Morning photo--our hiking partner had food poisoning</div>
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Walking up Alto del Perdon (Hill of Forgiveness)</div>
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The wind turbines on Alto del Perdon</div>
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(my husband is an amazing photographer, isn't he? I just noticed the jet streams at the top of the photo)</div>
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From my journal: <i>We didn't get right up next to the windmills, but they are huge.</i></div>
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Poppies became my most-favorite-flower-ever on this trip! From my journal: <i>I just can't get enough of them, whether it's one or two randomly placed among weeds and other wildflowers or thousands of them in a field.</i></div>
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From my journal: <i>The trail is marked (so far): by tiles that are blue with a yellow shell, yellow arrows, shell plaques, or stones in the sidewalk. It has not been too difficult to follow the camino, and it has been well-marked in cities (by the above signs as well as street signs).</i></div>
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More from my journal: <i>I have a bruise on my left foot from the tongue of my Keens. My legs and sometimes lower back are sore and my feet hurt (general pain). But it's all to be expected, after hiking at least 10 miles day after day, then maybe walking more around a city, and sleeping on bunk beds each night.</i></div>
<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-84578000106830622902012-06-30T18:18:00.001-04:002012-06-30T18:18:45.854-04:00Camino Day Three<div style="text-align: center;">
Friday, May 25, 2012</div>
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Larrasoana to Pamplona</div>
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20.9 km (13.0 miles)</div>
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Morning photo</div>
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John, Rachel, Adam</div>
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We saw a ton of snails and slugs on the trail when we first started. There's a little snail friend in this picture, can you see it?</div>
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These guys sold pastries, toast, fruit, coffee, juice, etc. out of their garage. And they had their own stamp too (for our pilgrim's passports), which is fun and a big deal for those just starting out on the camino. At the lower left corner of the house, you can see Adam and John. </div>
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Cafe con leche and cafe americano, Adam's and my regular, respectively</div>
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An Oktoberfest event. In May. At a bullring in Spain. And when we walked in, the Spanish lady was singing a pop song by an American performer.</div>
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St. Francis of Assisi </div>
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St. James</div>
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The albergue was not yet open when we got to Pamplona, so I waited there to hold our spot while the guys got lunch. It turned out to be completely unnecessary for me to wait, but I still felt the sting from paying 15 euros per person the previous night and wanted to ensure a spot in this municipal albergue. From my journal: <i>While sitting there, I answered the same questionnaire 3x for different groups of school children. One kid asked me where I'm from, and I told his teacher I'm from Tennessee, which is where Elvis Presley is from. The boy then said something about Hannah Montana, which is the second time a pre-teen has mentioned her.</i></div>
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Later: <i>We saw Dana (Canadian) and Michael (English), who invited us for beer. We had a great time chatting with them. Before that we had seen Anna and Tuna, two Norwegian girls, very friendly, who started the camino in LePuy and will walk for a total of 10 weeks.</i></div>
<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-28383417656443412752012-06-30T17:50:00.002-04:002012-06-30T18:19:05.534-04:00Camino Day Two<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Thursday, May 24, 2012</div>
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Walked from Roncesvalles (now in Spain for good) to Larrasoana. </div>
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Covered 27.4 km (17.0 miles)</div>
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Morning picture! John, Adam, Rachel</div>
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Only 790 km to Santiago (no big deal).</div>
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Mid-morning in Spain, coffee and budgeting (no big deal).</div>
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John and Adam</div>
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We still walked up hills, but no mountains like the first day.</div>
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From my journal: <i>A highlight: stopping to put our feet (and take a dip, for the guys) in a river--<u>freezing</u> cold</i></div>
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Adam completely submerged</div>
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John</div>
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You can see some markings on the corner of this building that indicate which direction the camino goes.</div>
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From my journal: <i>When we got to Larrasoana, where we planned on spending the night, the municipal albergue was full, as well as the overflow space. Ended up at a pension. Got a hot shower, laundered our own clothes, took a nice long nap, then reserved a place for dinner, which was the pilgrim's meal at the only bar/restaurant in town. </i></div>
<br />rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-61198868632780125942012-06-30T16:49:00.000-04:002012-06-30T18:19:33.231-04:00Camino Day One<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Wednesday, May 23, 2012</div>
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Our first day we hiked from St. Jean Pied-de-Port in France to Roncesvalles in Spain. We covered 25.1 km (15.6 miles) and crossed over the Pyrenees. </div>
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John, Adam, and Rachel outside the albergue</div>
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The walk started in town. Uphill right away. </div>
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We got used to seeing the conch shell.</div>
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Wild ponies grazing in the fog</div>
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It was a a cold and foggy day, but we still had some amazing views. I began to doubt my choice of clothing, as I, ahem, have an allergy to cold.<br />
From my journal: <i>The landscapes were beautiful. Green hills (mountains), small farms, shrouded in mist. We walked mostly on the road today, and when we didn't it was pretty steep downhill or muddy. </i>Also: <i>It was very gratifying to get some views despite the mist. </i></div>
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The water fountain outside an albergue where we had sandwiches and coffee. It was a nice break to get some food and warm up inside the building.</div>
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The sun came out as we were walking (still uphill) with Hiko, a Japanese man who gave us each an umeboshi (pickled Japanese plums) and a coin, along with a typed explanation of the significance of the coin. I kept the coin tied to the cord that held the conch shell to my backpack.</div>
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From my journal: <i>It was <u>amazing</u>. I am so glad we are doing this!</i></div>
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Even though the day got warmer, we could see lots of snow on the mountains in the distance.</div>
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The municipal albergue where we stayed in Roncesvalles. We slept in a sort of cubicle with two bunkbeds. There were almost 200 beds in this place, along with separate bathrooms for men and women, a kitchen, vending machines, and a computer room.</div>
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Tapas, beer, and wine before dinner. Carbo-loading for our next day on the camino!</div>rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-68180334114942418222012-06-16T09:00:00.002-04:002012-06-30T20:08:38.434-04:00Trail MagicSunday we had a long walk (31.2 km/19.2 miles) into Astorga. It was a bit windy, so we were getting dust in our eyes, and we had some small climbs up, as well as descents down, rocky roads. We were on a flat stretch about 6 km from the city when we saw a sign for La Casa de los Dioses. As we cruised up to the building, we were greeted by some other peregrinos and a Spanish man who called out,"Self service!"
And did he have a spread from which to serve ourselves!<br />
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There was potable water, a dozen types of tea, a dozen more kinds of fruit juice, almond milk, rice milk, cherries, chestnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, figs, and some crunchy cookie bar things. Then his friend came out with some hot curry (vegetarian, of course!) and a green salad with veggies and chickpeas. It was amazing, the sort of food I'd love to have around my own home all the time--fresh and nourishing. And after a long day of walking in the sun and wind, it was perfect.
Not only was there food for our bodies, there were some comfy couches and a hammock to give our minds a break. He also had a labyrinth near his building. AND there was a huge compost bin which, if you know me at all, was also hugely satisfying to see. <br />
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We have not encountered anything else like this on the camino. I understand why not--thousands upon thousands of peregrinos walk the way each year. It would be very difficult to sustain such an operation (sidenote: we got trail magic on the AT from a couple who watched me with eagle eyes when I poured more of their milk over the cereal I had carried with me). That is why it is so beautiful and was much appreciated by those who stopped to enjoy such generosity in a peaceful environment. In the midst of our now-daily grind of eating cold ham and cheese sandwiches and walking many miles in the relentless elements, we were unconditionally offered respite.rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8124798718498241573.post-87463113207260743842012-06-09T13:28:00.001-04:002012-06-30T20:13:51.644-04:00Who's Who (Part 4) or "The Group"After taking a bus from Burgos to Carrión earlier this week, we didn't know anyone who was walking around us. It was hard for me, the feeling of apprehension. I never was the new kid at school, but I have a vague idea what it feels like now.
In Carrión we met a Portuguese guy named Jose who is walking about 50 km per day. That's 30 miles. After reaching Santiago, he will walk to his home in Portugal--another 300 km.<br />
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The next day we met two guys who will be seniors at Kenyon (a university near where I grew up) this fall. They seperately indicated that they are traveling in a group that just sort of fell together. This sounded exclusive to us, but we have since met "the group," and of course it is made up of some wonderful people:<br />
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Andrew, one of the Kenyon students, who is self-deprecating and witty and feels kindof like a little cousin to me.<br />
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Mitchell, the other student, seems more reserved. He likes soccer, so Adam has watched some with him an a dozen other people the last couple of nights.<br />
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Amber, who will go to Greece for a couple of weeks after reaching Santiago, then begin law school this fall.<br />
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Colleen, a delightful Aussie who is a nurse in England.<br />
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Lee from Austin, TX, who looks at least a decade younger than his forty years.<br />
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Jeff, a New Zealander who <i>could</i> walk 50 km a day, but resists in order to enjoy spending time with his new friends.<br />
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Steve, was born and raised in Maryland, has four kids, and will spend a week in France with his wife upon finishing the camino.<br />
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Liz, who lives in Chicago, lived various places in Ohio after attending Xavier, and will move to Michigan next year when she marries a man with an apple orchard and maple syrup business.<br />
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Jody from England who is bubbly and quick witted.<br />
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Miguel, a Spaniard who <strike>joined the group a couple of days before we met them. He doesn't speak much English, so Jody carries on conversations with him in the best Spanish she can remember.</strike> was kicked out of the group because he apparently got "annoying." (I later found out that that meant...and agreed.)<br />
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Angela, another English woman who has been walking with Jody and Liz since almost the beginning, I think.<br />
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So, there you have it. The Group, of which we have grown fond. As I started typing this post, I wondered why I keep describing the other pilgrims we meet. And I realized it's because the people make this trip just as special as the walking, the quaint villages and historic cities, the views, and the fact that we're experiencing it all in Spain.rachelhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05717912069475875472noreply@blogger.com0