Camino Day Seven

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Los Arcos to Logrono

28.6 km (17.8 miles)

Morning photo--Rachel, Adam, John, on John's last day on the camino

From my journal: We got up early this morning, probably 5:30, and were out by 6. It was light enough to see, but the sun had not risen yet. It had rained during the night, but this morning didn't feel any cooler than any other morning. The sunrise was so pretty (behind us :(  ), and it turned some rainclouds pink over the mountains to the south. It was kindof a magical morning--we were all in a good mood, it was cool, the sky was beautiful, the landscape neat (a bunch of green grass-covered knobby hills popping out of yellow hayfields). 

Joe and John

Adam at the top of the steps, near the tourist information building in Logrono.

John's last steps with us on the camino

A stork in its nest atop a nearby cathedral

The view from the balcony of the municipal albergue

Mural near the albergue and a playground

We named this one St. James of the Thigh-High

We saw a small Michelangelo painting in this church. It was behind glass and inside a vault.

Camino Day Six

Monday, May 28, 2012

Estella to Los Arcos

21.1 km (13. 1 miles)

Morning photo--the three amigos!

Irache monastery

(another example of Adam's eye for capturing an image so well!)

At the (free!) wine fountain!

Alas, the fountain was not yet turned on for the day.

From my journal: We keep running into the Brazilian guys who we first met in Pamplona (at the bus station, before officially beginning our camino). We each greet each other, maybe exchange a few words in our limited Portuguese and Spanish, then smile, acknowledging we don't really know how else to bridge the communication gap.

Also one of Adam's Amazing Photos

The guidebook claimed that there was a potable fountain here, but when we looked in through those arches and down the stone steps, we saw a dark pool of stagnant water. No thanks.

From my journal: The camino went through a lot of vineyards and hay and wheat fields. In between two newly mown hayfields, I took a deep breath and the air smelled so sweet. Like candy.

This is the way. 

We spent our last evening with John in Los Arcos. After going into this amazing and beautiful church, we went out for dinner and got the pilgrim's meal at the Hotel Monaco. Although my meal was subpar, John and Adam enjoyed their meals. And of course we had good bread, wine, and dessert so we ended up having a great last meal together.

Camino Day Five

Sunday, May 27, 2012

Puente la Reina to Estella

21.9 km (13.6 miles)

Morning photo--hiking partner still not quite ready to jump up and at 'em in the morning 

This is the puente (bridge) after which the city is named. From our guidebook: Renamed Queens Bridge in honour of its benefactor Dona Mayor, wife of Sancho III. She commanded the magnificent Romanesque bridge to be built to support the safe movement of the increasing number of medieval pilgrims.

From my journal: The village sat up on a hill and was so compact and pretty as we approached, surrounded by hills, fields, and vineyards. In the city we found a little store with delicious smelling fresh bread. We got coffee from a machine and observed the locals: a skinny, friendly, and hungry black cat and about 10 young people (20+ years) who were still out after partying in the night. They carried rum & cokes in cups, hung off of street signs, and were generally harmless and fairly entertaining. It was about 9 a.m.

Many of these towns have very narrow, mostly cobbled streets that seem like alleys or pedestrian walkways. Yet cars utilize them, driving fairly slowly and minding pedestrians. 

The Italians

From right to left: Marco, Andrea, Alessio, unknown guy

Front and center: Ricky

Joaquin ("Joe"), John, and Adam

We met and had dinner with Joe in Roncesvalles. He was only out for two and a half or three weeks time, so he planned on walking the first and last 100 km or so. He was one of several people we met who felt he needed a mental health break and so requested time off of work to walk the camino.

John, Adam, Caroline, and Morgan

From my journal: It is siesta time, so I don't think shops are open. There is a full kitchen here (well, no stove, but 8-10 stove top eyes, a fridge, freezer, pots and pans, etc.), so I hope we can buy groceries and make dinner together. Someone made pasta last night at the albergue, and it smelled amazing.

Later: We set out to buy groceries with J, Caroline, and Morgan. We did find a shop where we found pasta, ingredients for sauce, and wine. Our meal cost 10.16 euros total--before splitting it between FIVE people. Plus we made about 2x what we needed. It was wonderful--shopping together, deciding on ingredients, cooking together (thought it was very simple), and enjoying the meal outside on the patio.

M is 17 years old. His friend and hiking partner fell and broke multiple bones in his ankle and has gone home. 

The trip has been so great. We have met interesting people. We get to be outside--the Spanish countryside. I feel so fortunate that we have the time to be here.

Camino Day Four

Saturday, May 26, 2012

Pamplona to Puente La Reina

24.1 km (~15 miles)

Morning photo--our hiking partner had food poisoning

Walking up Alto del Perdon (Hill of Forgiveness)

The wind turbines on Alto del Perdon

(my husband is an amazing photographer, isn't he? I just noticed the jet streams at the top of the photo)

From my journal: We didn't get right up next to the windmills, but they are huge.

Poppies became my most-favorite-flower-ever on this trip! From my journal: I just can't get enough of them, whether it's one or two randomly placed among weeds and other wildflowers or thousands of them in a field.

From my journal: The trail is marked (so far): by tiles that are blue with a yellow shell, yellow arrows, shell plaques, or stones in the sidewalk. It has not been too difficult to follow the camino, and it has been well-marked in cities (by the above signs as well as street signs).

More from my journal: I have a bruise on my left foot from the tongue of my Keens. My legs and sometimes lower back are sore and my feet hurt (general pain). But it's all to be expected, after hiking at least 10 miles day after day, then maybe walking more around a city, and sleeping on bunk beds each night.